Mushroom

Button mushrooms grown here in the UAE, which for mushrooms is a real advantage — they are more than 90% water and they start losing it the moment they are picked.

Sliced and fried hard in a dry pan first, then seasoned, they brown properly instead of stewing. That one habit is the difference between good mushrooms and grey ones. From there: into a masala, through a pasta, on toast, or skewered onto a mixed grill.

Choose mushrooms that are firm, dry to the touch and closed underneath. Open gills and a slippery surface both mean age. A little soil is fine and normal.

Fridge, in a paper bag, never plastic — plastic traps the moisture they give off and they go slimy within a day.

Do not wash them until you cook them, and then wipe rather than soak. A soaked mushroom will not brown.

Four to five days refrigerated.